Every time I get back from a trip, I’m equal parts excited to jot down every notable thing and overwhelmed by how much there is to cover. I shared a good portion of these spots on Instagram during our two-week stay in Paris and Provence, but figured a condensed list of some of my highlights would be helpful!
Food & Drinks
(Paris)
Miznon: This Israeli street food spot (that has locations around the world) had been at the top of G’s list for a while so I’m glad we were able to duck in for a late lunch on a rainy afternoon and split two of the beef pitas, the cauliflower, and the eggplant.
Briezh Cafe: A must-stop every time we’re in Paris for the best buckwheat crepes. I go sweet (nutella and strawberry), my family prefers savory (cheese, ham, and a sunny side up egg).
Edwart Chocolatier: There’s no shortage of outstanding chocolate in Paris, but this is currently at the top of my list. Besides leaving with a few bars of chocolate and chocolate-covered orange peels, the man who worked there was knowledgable and very friendly, which made the whole experience quite entertaining.
Stohrer: I wanted to try their famous almond croissant, but it was already gone by the time I arrived (note to self: go early next trip). I settled for some chocolates, which were delicious and made for beautifully packaged gifts for friends.
Le Petit Marché: Our friends introduced us to this restaurant last summer and we loved it so much that we made a point to return. It’s ideal for when you want a delicious, simple lunch (their Chinese chicken salad and salmon tartare are my must-orders) and a carafe of wine for the table.
Tavline: Another new-to-us, Mediterranean spot we adored. We split the assorted appetizer combination, which was a great way to sample several dishes, and though the fish balls didn’t sound appealing on the menu, once I tried G’s, I had major order envy.
L’Avenue: An upscale French restaurant that veers touristy, but had such great people watching, it made for a fun lunch spot.
Mary Gelateria: I’d recently read about Mary Pastelli, the winner of the prestigious Cono d’Oro (the “Gold Cone“) award, via David Leibovitz’s newsletter, so we stopped by after a day of wandering around the Marais. I had the Coffee (the flavor for which she won) and the Orange Flower with a baby scoop of the Caramel on top and my biggest regret of the trip was not returning every day it was that good.
Racines: One of the meals we enjoyed most was in this tiny, bustling bistro tucked inside the oldest covered passage in Paris. G had “the best Veal Milanese” of his life, we each got cantaloupe with prosciutto, I had a great pasta, and Sloan tried (and adored) her first tiramisu.
La Grande Épicerie de Paris: I didn’t know I could feel so strongly about a market until I stepped foot in this place several years ago and get the same thrill each time I walk through the doors. It has the most impressive selection of candies and chocolates, wine and cheese, and everything else in between (including butter which they’ll vacuum seal so you can pack it in your suitcase!), all of which makes for ideal gifts if you’re willing to part with any of it once you return home.
(Provence)
Francis Mallmann: I was first introduced to Francis Mallmann from his riveting Chef’s Table episode and was thrilled we got to go to one of his restaurants while in Provence, located at the Château la Coste, a stunning property with incredible sculptures and art galleries that’s worth a trip alone.
La Cour d’Honneur: A beautiful outdoor space where we had lunch in Avignon – I still dream about their mashed potatoes.
Maison Bergese: The very best pain au chocolat I had during our two-weeks in France (and I averaged at least one a day), was down a small side street in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. It was impossibly flaky and soft with the most buttery, chocolately inside and will forever be the standard to which I judge all other pastries.
La Cave aux Fromages: The most special little cheese shop that I’d frequent on a daily basis if I lived in St. Remy. I took back multiple cheeses that were recommended to me as well as some pretty jams in unique flavors.
Shopping
(Paris)
Officine Universelle Buly: One of my first stops anytime I visit Paris since it’s like stepping into a beauty apothecary straight out of Harry Potter. I like to go early in my trip since getting anything customized (lip balms, combs, etc.) makes for the best gifts.
Maison Bourgeat: We stumbled upon this store (the location on Rue de Buci) and G and I both got new glasses we adore (his are clear frames with green lenses and mine are black frames with brown lenses). Sarah, the woman who works there, was so helpful and lovely.
Tressé: I can’t remember the last time I came across a brand or store where I loved nearly every single item, but each piece felt chic, playful, and unique. I left with a gorgeous dress and wish I could have fit everything, including the decor, in my suitcase.
Le Bon Marche: It’s the first department store in the world and always worth a stop. There’s no better curation, assortment or overall experience.
Paris Flea Market: The Paris Flea Market is enormous with fourteen different markets, all of which are relatively difficult to navigate between, which is why I stuck to one (Marché Vernaison) on a morning by myself. There was tons of art, silverware, furniture, vintage clothing, keepsakes and pretty much anything else you could think of. I left with a sweatshirt for a friend, an antique lace clothing set for Tim, and a beautiful ceramic tray from David Roy Antiquités, a small shop that had an incredible assortment.
(Provence)
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market: This was the same market where I got all of the best antiques last year and my luck continued this time around. We arrived at around 9am so we could stroll through the farmers’ market, then hit up the antique stores, which opened an hour later. I found an amazing bowl and piece of art, both of which I was able to fit in my suitcase, but a lot of the dealers are able to ship if you don’t have the room.
See
(Paris)
Musée de l’Orangerie: My favorite museum with an immersive Monet exhibit and a wonderfully curated selection of works by Modigliani, Cézanne, Derain, Renoir in such an approachable size (it took us about an hour and a half). I appreciated that it wasn’t too crowded and that Sloan was able to recognize so many of the artists’ works that she’d learned about in school.
(Provence)
Glanum: An ancient Roman city located on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence that was buried for 17 centuries until it was discovered in 1921. It was nice getting to walk amongst the ruins at my own pace (I highly recommend the accompanying audio tour) and marvel at the infrastructure that was created between the 4th and 3rd century BC.
